The week of Renaixement

The first sign was the flags. Blue and yellow, red and white, on street corners all around the old quarter. Next, they were on the bridge, and the main street. After that, deep red velvet banners were drawn along the balconies of our little Carrer. The following morning we awoke to sails draped across plazas. Then red and yellow flags and banners appeared, hung from one end of town to the other. And on Thurdsay 100 market stalls, bars, taverns, and tressle tables sprouted overnight, along with several discreet islands of portaloos. When the portaloos come out, you know something big is happening.

With such anticipation-building decorations, Tortosa prepared itself for its biggest party of the year, and we steadied ourselves to go from one festival to another, very different party. This week Tortosa is celebrating its 20th Festa del Renaixament, a four day extravaganza of all things 16th century. The town has completely been transformed. The air is full of the smell of BBQ and the sound of drums, people are dressed up in 1700s garb (from peasants to lords), and performance groups, giants, eagles and gargoyles are roaming the streets. It is amazing. The old fortifications at the back of town are also included: for the rest of the year the old walls are pretty much abandoned, but at the moment they are playing hosts to all night taverns and concerts. Incredible.

As we are living in the old part of town, we’re right in the thick of it. Sleeping before 2am is not really an option, giving us plenty of opportunities to explore. Here are just some of the sights we’ve seen!

Opening
The festival opened with a bang
Tortosa flags
The Tortosa Abanderados (flag throwning troup)
Abanderadito
The smallest Abanderado
LordsnLadies
The lords and ladies in their finery
Gigantes
Tortosa’s giants parade past our house
Plaza
One of the crowded plazas
Caballos
One of the street performances
Gargoyles
Human gargoyles on the Cathedral
Devish
A whirling dervish (he span for 30 minutes!)
Ilikebirds
The Falconer
meat
One of the parrillas selling all sorts of BBQed treats
Before
A plaza on Thursday afternoon
The same plaza on Friday night
The same plaza on Friday night
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